I have spent the day in Accra, buying dictionaries and visiting the high commission and generally tidying up loose ends and it is now very late and I am late home and my phone is out of battery..Whoops! Nobody knows where the old girl is...love it1
I'm not going to ge all maudlin about going.
There's good and bad. I am going to have a think about it all and post from France.
The photos seems to have distorted colour so I'll save them too.
This has been an amzing time for me. Thanks to everyone who made it possible.
It is not a matter of "not with a bang, but with a whimper". This has been important time and adventure and experience and I don't just want to brush it off with a "that's all folks!"
So---that's not all folks.
I will be back in a few days.
Better get home ...now how much am I going to have to fight with the cab driver?
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Praise God and pass the Amex card!
Sitting at the local "spot" and waiting for Meghan. Off to Accra for Thanksgiving (of all things!). My one concession to anything American while I am here.
Thankfully, Ghana does not seem to cowtow to the US--they have a fairly healthy and cynical arms-length relationship with them I think. Unwilling to exchange one imperial power for another, I think, and very proud (despite their neediness) of their independence.
Dawhenya is really just a large truck stop. Very busy with a main road which links Accra to Togo.
Just sitting is interesting. A tro tro came by with two signs on the rear window...both hand painted. "Trust in God" and "Nike". Ha ha...well there are all kinds of imperialism aren't there!?
Road kill is a favourite dish around here. The goats wander all over the roads and, well...the inevitable happens. There is a little routine they go through here to test the freshness ...not going there though.
Thanksgiving was atrocious of course..too many white people and too much booze. Should have known I guess.
I moved on to Cape Coast..amazing place with the slave forts and museums casting a dark and imposing historical shadow over the town.
Emina is really spoiling myself. FNQ-like with palm trees everywhere.
There is a huge and well thought of university at Cape Coast...with all the beautiful beaches..Aussie students would never get any work done!
To Krokobite to join my friends on Saturday night. To a place called Big Milly's Backyard--run by a rather eccentric Englishwoman and her Ghanain husband. Reggae everywhere--Rastamen abound and the music stopped at about 4am.
We were going to stay longer on the beach, but one of the girls hit the deck quite quickly. We thought it was malaria at first but seems she has not got it...but sick with somthing.We took her back to the hospital she works at and she will be fine, I'm sure.
Photos are of Cape Coast Castle and Dawhenya main road, with Moses junior tking the kids across in the aternoon and my insane year 4 class. These photos don't appear too good...but they are fine on the camera..I think it is the computer place.
OK OK..I think I finally Get it!
A couple of nights ago I think I finally "got" Africa.
It had been storming and raining like crazy and I walked through it a long way from "the spot" to home. The air was sweet smelling and the clear (the smells not yet having the chance to set in).
Just beautiful!
I said goodnight to the Malian guys sitting by my front door. (my French seems to improve dramatically after a couple of beers--oh dear)
And the next morning, the kids were singing as they swept every inch of the dirt in the compound....everybody was fresh and happy.
Apparently I have noticeably "slowed"--my speech; my gait; my frantic "do it and do it now" attitudes have gone. Thank God!
I believe that people come to these places, not to "help the little children" but for reasons of their own---largely to mend their own psyche or steady their heads, or even, sadly, to atone for their Western Guilt.
It doesn't really matter WHY. And, while you are here, slowing and calming etc... if you can be a bit helpful along the way...then why not?
But it's clear, both from my observation of my friends and myself, that amidst all the dirt and the poverty and the grinding difficulty to survive day to day of the people here---their generous good nature and acceptance "rubs off" on silly Westerners and we benefit in ways we never could have imagined. And because we are totally and imeediately immersed --after the initial and rather severe shock---changes happen quickly for us too!
I'm grateful for the changes and I'm grateful for the good humour shown to the Obroni!
some of my year 5s...why wouldn't I be having fun? Trying to work out how to smuggle them home!!!
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Kindred Spirits
My travelling companions and friends are interesting people.
Meghan, a woman from the US..is a teacher has had "an interesting life". She likes George Bush, is Catholic and is one of the most perceptive and self aware people I have ever met. Intense living makes for intense friendships i guess. I'm happy to have met her. She's a valuable person and lots of fun!
Kirsten, a public health intern from Johns hopkins. She is funded by Bill Gates Malaria project and is young and ambitious and well motivated and a terrific woman. And she hates George bush and is a pagan like me!!
There is Viet..a german doing a year public service instead of joining the army...he really means it...Ghana is no picnic!
And there is the lovely Zaraar,,a Pakistani engineer who is here for a year teaching while he waits for a placement in Milan. He is engaged to a Pakistani girl in the States and misses her like crazy.
These people have been a pleasure to be with. They are committed and light-hearted and inelligent people to spend time with. I will miss them, especially Meghan and Kirsten.
Meghan, a woman from the US..is a teacher has had "an interesting life". She likes George Bush, is Catholic and is one of the most perceptive and self aware people I have ever met. Intense living makes for intense friendships i guess. I'm happy to have met her. She's a valuable person and lots of fun!
Kirsten, a public health intern from Johns hopkins. She is funded by Bill Gates Malaria project and is young and ambitious and well motivated and a terrific woman. And she hates George bush and is a pagan like me!!
There is Viet..a german doing a year public service instead of joining the army...he really means it...Ghana is no picnic!
And there is the lovely Zaraar,,a Pakistani engineer who is here for a year teaching while he waits for a placement in Milan. He is engaged to a Pakistani girl in the States and misses her like crazy.
These people have been a pleasure to be with. They are committed and light-hearted and inelligent people to spend time with. I will miss them, especially Meghan and Kirsten.
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Ashanti country
We've been to Kumasi, to the heart of the Ashanti kingdom. The oldest and richest of Ghana.
9 hours there and 9 hours back on a tro tro was not my idea of jolly jaunts! Still, very very cheap. And it's importnat to travel cheaply like everybody else. The more sanitised STC buses are no faster and you miss all the action.Much better to try to be a local, thought the Obroni price for things is pretty inflated.
To do them credit...there is a volunteer price which lands somewhere between local and white. They really do appreciate the effort, even if sometimes it feels like the voluunteers are a bunch of rich white kids on gap year, grizziling that they can't get fed/bathed/served...whatever. And basically just wiping themselves out every weekend. (Reminds me a bit of me after escaping boarding school!)
I'm stating to spend more of the money that was collected at home.
Very quickly after i suggested that the kids needed a library where they could get the books themselves from the shelves and put them back (under supervison) ...they love to OWN the books..little buggers. Doors have been made for 3 of the rooms and bookcases constructed for the rooms. They have to be locked at night or everything will disappear.
Stools for them to have lunch on and a new blackboard for year 5. Money goes a long way in ghana!
Also...I discovered that the way they blacken the boards is to crack open old batteries and rub the black acid on the board...which subsequently floats around every time you clean the it. i have discovered the cause of always withme lung infection. Imagine what it's doingto little...non abused lungs!
So there is currently a Ghana wide search on for blackboard paint something that is not quit so toxic.
The owner, mt anthony...is a progressive guy. His attiude is 'if the wset doesit better...we should do it too@. That's all very well, but the west also does some things very badly...we have long talks about all of this. they ar not a flippant people. if they eneter into discussion with you..it's all formal language and hours of talk. Quit nice really and I always learn something amazing on the way. Attitudes are formed so differently, for historical and religious reasons. Quite complicated.
You may have noticed that the computer has started to do some very weird stuff! I cannot edit and so have to be careful. Sorry about that paragraph!!
I am also going to send back position things for the netball uniform. They don't seem to have them here and i can't get people to understand what we need. Also...no maps of the world...lots of Ghana though. So i will get them laminated and sent them back. Can't send heavy stuff though...too expensive.
9 hours there and 9 hours back on a tro tro was not my idea of jolly jaunts! Still, very very cheap. And it's importnat to travel cheaply like everybody else. The more sanitised STC buses are no faster and you miss all the action.Much better to try to be a local, thought the Obroni price for things is pretty inflated.
To do them credit...there is a volunteer price which lands somewhere between local and white. They really do appreciate the effort, even if sometimes it feels like the voluunteers are a bunch of rich white kids on gap year, grizziling that they can't get fed/bathed/served...whatever. And basically just wiping themselves out every weekend. (Reminds me a bit of me after escaping boarding school!)
I'm stating to spend more of the money that was collected at home.
Very quickly after i suggested that the kids needed a library where they could get the books themselves from the shelves and put them back (under supervison) ...they love to OWN the books..little buggers. Doors have been made for 3 of the rooms and bookcases constructed for the rooms. They have to be locked at night or everything will disappear.
Stools for them to have lunch on and a new blackboard for year 5. Money goes a long way in ghana!
Also...I discovered that the way they blacken the boards is to crack open old batteries and rub the black acid on the board...which subsequently floats around every time you clean the it. i have discovered the cause of always withme lung infection. Imagine what it's doingto little...non abused lungs!
So there is currently a Ghana wide search on for blackboard paint something that is not quit so toxic.
The owner, mt anthony...is a progressive guy. His attiude is 'if the wset doesit better...we should do it too@. That's all very well, but the west also does some things very badly...we have long talks about all of this. they ar not a flippant people. if they eneter into discussion with you..it's all formal language and hours of talk. Quit nice really and I always learn something amazing on the way. Attitudes are formed so differently, for historical and religious reasons. Quite complicated.
You may have noticed that the computer has started to do some very weird stuff! I cannot edit and so have to be careful. Sorry about that paragraph!!
I am also going to send back position things for the netball uniform. They don't seem to have them here and i can't get people to understand what we need. Also...no maps of the world...lots of Ghana though. So i will get them laminated and sent them back. Can't send heavy stuff though...too expensive.
Polyester and Pumps
I think I am going to have to publish a page of photos when I can get a better connection. So...something to look forward to.
In the meantime.
Tall girls. The girls absolutely throw themselves at the ball and won't countenance defeat. Calvary girls playing netball on sports day is like Gladiator without that bloody awful Russell Crowe!
The place is dusty and there are no lines marked and we have had to find bits of cardboard on which to write WD, WA, C etc and sew them onto the girls' shirts before they can play...but boy do they play!
Amidst all the dust and limbs flying..the referree strides around. Not a blemish or mark on her...in a blue polyester suit and high heels!
She must be boilling. It's about 44 degress and I'm hugging whatever shade I can. She looks immaculate and not at all like the sports mistresses when I went to school. (apologies to Mrs Long)
The sports day was great, if somewhat long, with the girls as runners up on the day and the boys doing a little better, coming 2nd overall in the soccer. They played three full length games that day in 40-50 degree heat.
The girls here are intersting. There is a sort of maturation process goes on at about age 14. they start to grow their hair quite long and braid it. (extensions everywhere,,no hiding them like at home and pretending they are your own hair). They strut around in short skirts for about two weeks, advertising quite happily....and then they stop!
Back to school uniform and conservatism. I think it's a hangover from before, when a girl didn't have anything to do (except all the world's work) after puberty and she was then marriageable...but now they seem to think they have better things to do and school is one of them .Fabulous! They also take marriage pretty darned seriously here (at least the girls do....the boys....now there is another story! ) They don't seem to want to muck around with sexual posturing before they are ready. Also....the bride price is much bigger here for a well educated, well behaved young Christian Lady.
Sadly, there seems to be quite a lot of paedophilia here. The only sign at the airpot says ' Akwaaba---welcome! Unless you are a paedophile and and intend to do injury to anyone in Ghana!'
Well that's pretty clear...and shocking. But they don't need to import their problem It's already here.
Meghan and i seem to have had several litttle kids each who have been raped who- I think, work on the assumption that someone outside the family might DO something. Of course, this is nigh on impossible in the west--much less here. But it seems that just listening to their stories, when everyone in the family can't because of shame..is all you can do.
The idea that 5 and 6 year olds retelling stories of viloation so that they know that it really did happen is too much punishment...and punishing the wrong people. Whenever was it any different, in any culture I guess. But sitting and talking and having a cry with them (or their mums) seesm to help.
That their rapist continue to live happliy next door and go one to attck their little sisters or brothers does my head in!
OK...I will tell you another Sports day story.
I'm sitting on a rock..in the shade and it's still 50 degrees. Two of the boys come up and tell me they are thirsty. I give them most of my water and some money to go buy water for the team.
Two seconds later it becomes clear that i am buying used socks for the entire team...and they are grinning widely at me! haha. The pitch...the play and then..the grin. Gotcha! It doesn't seem like deception..it just is how things are done. Survivors all!
In the meantime.
Tall girls. The girls absolutely throw themselves at the ball and won't countenance defeat. Calvary girls playing netball on sports day is like Gladiator without that bloody awful Russell Crowe!
The place is dusty and there are no lines marked and we have had to find bits of cardboard on which to write WD, WA, C etc and sew them onto the girls' shirts before they can play...but boy do they play!
Amidst all the dust and limbs flying..the referree strides around. Not a blemish or mark on her...in a blue polyester suit and high heels!
She must be boilling. It's about 44 degress and I'm hugging whatever shade I can. She looks immaculate and not at all like the sports mistresses when I went to school. (apologies to Mrs Long)
The sports day was great, if somewhat long, with the girls as runners up on the day and the boys doing a little better, coming 2nd overall in the soccer. They played three full length games that day in 40-50 degree heat.
The girls here are intersting. There is a sort of maturation process goes on at about age 14. they start to grow their hair quite long and braid it. (extensions everywhere,,no hiding them like at home and pretending they are your own hair). They strut around in short skirts for about two weeks, advertising quite happily....and then they stop!
Back to school uniform and conservatism. I think it's a hangover from before, when a girl didn't have anything to do (except all the world's work) after puberty and she was then marriageable...but now they seem to think they have better things to do and school is one of them .Fabulous! They also take marriage pretty darned seriously here (at least the girls do....the boys....now there is another story! ) They don't seem to want to muck around with sexual posturing before they are ready. Also....the bride price is much bigger here for a well educated, well behaved young Christian Lady.
Sadly, there seems to be quite a lot of paedophilia here. The only sign at the airpot says ' Akwaaba---welcome! Unless you are a paedophile and and intend to do injury to anyone in Ghana!'
Well that's pretty clear...and shocking. But they don't need to import their problem It's already here.
Meghan and i seem to have had several litttle kids each who have been raped who- I think, work on the assumption that someone outside the family might DO something. Of course, this is nigh on impossible in the west--much less here. But it seems that just listening to their stories, when everyone in the family can't because of shame..is all you can do.
The idea that 5 and 6 year olds retelling stories of viloation so that they know that it really did happen is too much punishment...and punishing the wrong people. Whenever was it any different, in any culture I guess. But sitting and talking and having a cry with them (or their mums) seesm to help.
That their rapist continue to live happliy next door and go one to attck their little sisters or brothers does my head in!
OK...I will tell you another Sports day story.
I'm sitting on a rock..in the shade and it's still 50 degrees. Two of the boys come up and tell me they are thirsty. I give them most of my water and some money to go buy water for the team.
Two seconds later it becomes clear that i am buying used socks for the entire team...and they are grinning widely at me! haha. The pitch...the play and then..the grin. Gotcha! It doesn't seem like deception..it just is how things are done. Survivors all!
Clever Work Vivian!
Food here is a bit of a lottery. Strangely, I think that the food on the roadside is quite OK as people tend to eat it all the time. The fish in a box looks a bit dodgy though!
Outside my door, the men gather nightly and speak only French..I think they are from Benin. I can only converse very slightly with them, but they are friendly and full of greetings (no handshakes though...we don't touch women!)
Have discovered why Reba doesnn't talk much (you genius Pen)...she belongs to one of the men and only speaks French Ha ah...doing better with her now.
I teach a little girl that lives next door to me. Her name is Vivian..very cute but a bit lazy.
I had promised that I would loan her some books in the evening to help with her reading. Well...as it turns out, the kids here DON'T return books and go to interesting lengths to avoid it.
This morning, I asked for one of the books so that I could photocopy it for everyone. She wasn't happy and I thought...'oh dear...not going to get this'.
Mext thing, Mum comes along, and yells at V to get the book. Vivian goes into the house, a door slams and she emerges--bookless--smiling--having locked the door, her mother out and the book in! Clever girl. Temporary...Mum put her foot into the door and we had the book. I though that was a bit extreme myself and would have preferred to quietly congratulate Vivian on her lateral thinking!
Outside my door, the men gather nightly and speak only French..I think they are from Benin. I can only converse very slightly with them, but they are friendly and full of greetings (no handshakes though...we don't touch women!)
Have discovered why Reba doesnn't talk much (you genius Pen)...she belongs to one of the men and only speaks French Ha ah...doing better with her now.
I teach a little girl that lives next door to me. Her name is Vivian..very cute but a bit lazy.
I had promised that I would loan her some books in the evening to help with her reading. Well...as it turns out, the kids here DON'T return books and go to interesting lengths to avoid it.
This morning, I asked for one of the books so that I could photocopy it for everyone. She wasn't happy and I thought...'oh dear...not going to get this'.
Mext thing, Mum comes along, and yells at V to get the book. Vivian goes into the house, a door slams and she emerges--bookless--smiling--having locked the door, her mother out and the book in! Clever girl. Temporary...Mum put her foot into the door and we had the book. I though that was a bit extreme myself and would have preferred to quietly congratulate Vivian on her lateral thinking!
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
See...I promised!
I'm not an editor..at least in regard to this blog, which has been a trial to master. So, I hope the images are clear and useful.
This is my street.
With apologies...I have decided not to include photos of my house or it's interior. It's pretty humble, but it paints the wrong picture. From a western eye it looks pretty damned awful..but I have so much more in that little room than just about anyone in Dawhenya. I have a bed, a sit down toilet and a hose pipe with a shower head. One of the teachers who grew up here came in the other night and thought the place was "lovely'. So...no horror shots. It's all relative and I have a bucket load more than most. Don't get me wrong...I have a bloody good whinge here from time to time...I'm not THAT changed!
All the houses are concrete..floors and walls. They keep the rain out.
This is Reba, my little neighbour, who happens to know how to say "Madam Penny"..I think her brother taught her. She and her two brothers are my constant companions at home. They are quite content to sit in the doorway playing until it gets to mosquito time and then I shoo them home and close the door.
They are the sweetest little kids.
Preparing for lessons is a job in itself (tell us about it...say the teachers out there). I'm lucky..I have access to a photocopier in Tema, so don't have to rely on Ghanain text books (oh dear...less said really) and so long as I have light at night, I fix stuff up for the next day and grade the papers.
The routine is the same every day...washing, filling my waterbottles witht little sachets of pure water you buy off the street..much cheaper. About 4 litres per day is about enough to stop from feeling too crook.
We have lots of different sorts of people in our street. The Muslim guys hang out on mats outside their house and talk until about 2 or 3 am when they go to prayer. Nice people, who invited me to watch soccer with them the other night...quite the honour. They don't usually speak to women. They are from Benin and very formal but not fundamental I think.
An example of the Ghanain hospitality is that, when someone wants to invite you to do something or come into their house, they throw the door open wide and bow, saying "you are welcome"....when they want you to share their food, they offer it to you saying "you are invited" and you really are expected to partake.
There are little drinking places scattered all over the place called "spots". My favourite is a little rasta place about a mile down the road, which I regularly pass at about 6 or 6.30AM. the music is big...so is the hair and the smell of ganja is thick in the air...at 6am....have a great day guys!
Will just say a little about my weekend and then go . We went into the highland to Ho Hoe to see waterfalls and MONKEYS! So damned cute. The monkey sanctuary was started by the US Peace Corps as an eco tourist site and to preseve the 4 groups of monkeys there. The 9 tribes look after them, including one fetish tribe, which worships them. And they are healthy and happy. The people are delightful and so calm and happy. I think caring for a pristine area and a group of critters could do people some good. hmmmm. They are all so proud of what they have achieved and although the money return is miniscule by western standards, they say "it's enough" and they just like the life it gives them,. Imagine that. We'd call it lack of ambition....it's SO not! I have rarely been in such a calm and friendly place.
Well..it's been a bit of a bland blog tonight...sorry. But I've spent HOURS trying to get these photos up...so on we go 1am now.
Goodnight.
Take That John Howard!
Evening...and as you have probably gathered...I managed to vote today. (don't know that it's going to make a world of difference actually).
The people at the High Commission were lovely and very helpful as regards further help for the school at which I'm posted. They were instrumental in building the toilets for the school and would LOVE to do another project. Don't have to ask ME twice!
I caught myself whistling in the house the other night, bending over in the dark and doing my washing by hand, insanely pleased that at least my fan was working. Keep it simple stupid!
I'm lucky to have any powere at all really. Storms, winds, whims and acts of God or Allah knock it all out at the slightest provocation.
I'm finally feeling as if I may be a little more than a waste of space here.
I'm doing remedial reading for a few of the kids in year 5...4 of them have no reading skills!
The kids seem to fight over having Madam as their teacher...I have no false pride about this...it mens 1 !/2 hours without the cane (the lessons really are that long).
I'm having to apaologize AGAIN for no photos, though I think I'm finally on top of it and may have some for the blog tomorrow night.
Tomorrow is sports day!....10 hours of dust storm...something to look forward to.
I'm going now quickly and will pst tomorrow night as I'm going to get shut down.
Big long post with photos tomorrow!
The people at the High Commission were lovely and very helpful as regards further help for the school at which I'm posted. They were instrumental in building the toilets for the school and would LOVE to do another project. Don't have to ask ME twice!
I caught myself whistling in the house the other night, bending over in the dark and doing my washing by hand, insanely pleased that at least my fan was working. Keep it simple stupid!
I'm lucky to have any powere at all really. Storms, winds, whims and acts of God or Allah knock it all out at the slightest provocation.
I'm finally feeling as if I may be a little more than a waste of space here.
I'm doing remedial reading for a few of the kids in year 5...4 of them have no reading skills!
The kids seem to fight over having Madam as their teacher...I have no false pride about this...it mens 1 !/2 hours without the cane (the lessons really are that long).
I'm having to apaologize AGAIN for no photos, though I think I'm finally on top of it and may have some for the blog tomorrow night.
Tomorrow is sports day!....10 hours of dust storm...something to look forward to.
I'm going now quickly and will pst tomorrow night as I'm going to get shut down.
Big long post with photos tomorrow!
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
Several new Rules to live by
My new rules for Africa are:
Always walk in the shade
Walk about 60% slower than you normally would
Eat when offered food...it may not happen again for some time
Drink a dam full of water (before breakfast)
Whenever possible...lie down!
Things are really not that bad. It's pretty special here.
I'm busy falling in love with the kids, though I had to learn a large lesson. Penny doesn't know how to control 5-6 year olds!!!
The cane is used with such frequency here (we don't talk about this...it's an accepted cultural thing) that, when the new Obroni or Blafuno (white person) walks in...it's heaven on a stick and the kids go crazy!
So...I'm a complete failure with the little ones. I felt completely defeated by them within 2 days. Luckily, the years 3-4 and year 5s are the most delightful kids of their age I have ever met.
They're keen to learn and seem to respond well to new information or new ways of doing things.
So...thank God...I've moved to those classes full time. It just means more prep time, which is small price to pay for not leaving the school every day in tears!
I'm cheating a bit this afternoon. There is no power at the house and I have a lot to work on, so I have come to a place called Pram Pram which has a hotel ...WITH A POOL! and internet connection. It's a fine place to spend a couple of hours. Most places with pools will let you swim for about $1-2 dollars and hang out in a (small) degree of comfort.
The teachers her are paid about $30 dollars a month. It's very hard for them to live and impossible for them to get further education. They are constantly asking for sponsorship to Australia. Though, they are just asking and are fine when you reply that you really can't do that.
It's a sleepy place, Africa. Everybody seems to pass out at some time during the day. Even the teachers put their heads on the desk and go to sleep for a while if the kids have work to do...hard to get used to that one.
The other volunteer from Pram Pram and I go into Tema, the closest big town, to get the weekly budget tomorrow after school. It's good having someone close by, though we are very careful not to live in each others's pockets...it stops you from talking to the locals, which really defeats the whole purpose.
Still no photos..I know....still working on this. Sorry.
Aparently, we are headed for a town on the west coast at the weekend. It's past the slave forts and into the coast between Cape Coast and Cote D'Ivoire. The man who runs the school I'm at also wants to take us up into the Ashanti region for a couple of days.
I was invited to the naming ceremony of his new daughter yesterday. I thought it would be just like a Christening, but at 6am the whole town turned out...amazingly all dressed in white, to welcome Sofia. I just sort of wandered up, only to discover that I was seated next to Mum and Dad and had some sort of role to play. Oh Oh! They were all wonderful and the ceremony was lovely, full of warnings to the devil to stay away from this young child or the community would hunt him down and take their revenge....and they would too! I felt really priviledged to be included. These are amazingly generous people...especially when they have absolutely nothing.
I have held onto the donations from home for a while. As with all places..it's a bit difficult to get a handle on the politics of what is happening and I want to make sure that nothing is wasted and that the children get the biggest benefit from people's generosity. Time will make this all clear I am sure.
Very early morning and night time are the most amazing times here. The world seesm to move in the dark all along the busy roads and all you hear is "good evening...how are you...I'm fine" all in one sentence before you even see the person it's coming from. by that time you have gone past and of course, calling back "good evening....I'm good....how are you?"
It's a bit distracting when trucks full of people on the back, slow down so they can all get their formal greetings in..".blafoni blafoni blafoni...how are .....etc."
The ?"funniest" thing.. (not the right word) is when little babies. beautiful children, see you for the first time (and sometimes the second and third) and burst into tears because they've never seen a blafoni before....white ghost!! Makes me feels like a real bully! We are well out of town here and the expats and westerners really only live in the city. It's only the volunteers who make it out here really.
The night is noisy, cars, trucks, people speaking right next to you without you knowing they are there...until about 10 and then.....silence. It's a beautiful big, velvety sort of silence and then there's always that sky. Oh my goodness...Australia has a big sky...this is deeper and darker and yet brighter all at once. You seem to fall into it's clarity.
I'm glad I'm falling for some of the charms of this country...the harshness would make the whole thing too hard for an old girl otherwise. And on that note...... catch you later xx
Always walk in the shade
Walk about 60% slower than you normally would
Eat when offered food...it may not happen again for some time
Drink a dam full of water (before breakfast)
Whenever possible...lie down!
Things are really not that bad. It's pretty special here.
I'm busy falling in love with the kids, though I had to learn a large lesson. Penny doesn't know how to control 5-6 year olds!!!
The cane is used with such frequency here (we don't talk about this...it's an accepted cultural thing) that, when the new Obroni or Blafuno (white person) walks in...it's heaven on a stick and the kids go crazy!
So...I'm a complete failure with the little ones. I felt completely defeated by them within 2 days. Luckily, the years 3-4 and year 5s are the most delightful kids of their age I have ever met.
They're keen to learn and seem to respond well to new information or new ways of doing things.
So...thank God...I've moved to those classes full time. It just means more prep time, which is small price to pay for not leaving the school every day in tears!
I'm cheating a bit this afternoon. There is no power at the house and I have a lot to work on, so I have come to a place called Pram Pram which has a hotel ...WITH A POOL! and internet connection. It's a fine place to spend a couple of hours. Most places with pools will let you swim for about $1-2 dollars and hang out in a (small) degree of comfort.
The teachers her are paid about $30 dollars a month. It's very hard for them to live and impossible for them to get further education. They are constantly asking for sponsorship to Australia. Though, they are just asking and are fine when you reply that you really can't do that.
It's a sleepy place, Africa. Everybody seems to pass out at some time during the day. Even the teachers put their heads on the desk and go to sleep for a while if the kids have work to do...hard to get used to that one.
The other volunteer from Pram Pram and I go into Tema, the closest big town, to get the weekly budget tomorrow after school. It's good having someone close by, though we are very careful not to live in each others's pockets...it stops you from talking to the locals, which really defeats the whole purpose.
Still no photos..I know....still working on this. Sorry.
Aparently, we are headed for a town on the west coast at the weekend. It's past the slave forts and into the coast between Cape Coast and Cote D'Ivoire. The man who runs the school I'm at also wants to take us up into the Ashanti region for a couple of days.
I was invited to the naming ceremony of his new daughter yesterday. I thought it would be just like a Christening, but at 6am the whole town turned out...amazingly all dressed in white, to welcome Sofia. I just sort of wandered up, only to discover that I was seated next to Mum and Dad and had some sort of role to play. Oh Oh! They were all wonderful and the ceremony was lovely, full of warnings to the devil to stay away from this young child or the community would hunt him down and take their revenge....and they would too! I felt really priviledged to be included. These are amazingly generous people...especially when they have absolutely nothing.
I have held onto the donations from home for a while. As with all places..it's a bit difficult to get a handle on the politics of what is happening and I want to make sure that nothing is wasted and that the children get the biggest benefit from people's generosity. Time will make this all clear I am sure.
Very early morning and night time are the most amazing times here. The world seesm to move in the dark all along the busy roads and all you hear is "good evening...how are you...I'm fine" all in one sentence before you even see the person it's coming from. by that time you have gone past and of course, calling back "good evening....I'm good....how are you?"
It's a bit distracting when trucks full of people on the back, slow down so they can all get their formal greetings in..".blafoni blafoni blafoni...how are .....etc."
The ?"funniest" thing.. (not the right word) is when little babies. beautiful children, see you for the first time (and sometimes the second and third) and burst into tears because they've never seen a blafoni before....white ghost!! Makes me feels like a real bully! We are well out of town here and the expats and westerners really only live in the city. It's only the volunteers who make it out here really.
The night is noisy, cars, trucks, people speaking right next to you without you knowing they are there...until about 10 and then.....silence. It's a beautiful big, velvety sort of silence and then there's always that sky. Oh my goodness...Australia has a big sky...this is deeper and darker and yet brighter all at once. You seem to fall into it's clarity.
I'm glad I'm falling for some of the charms of this country...the harshness would make the whole thing too hard for an old girl otherwise. And on that note...... catch you later xx
Sunday, November 4, 2007
There's a new Obromi in town.
Sorry about my absence, but this is the first time I have been able to get to the internet since arriving in Dawhenya.
I would love to get pictures to you but technical hitches abound here. I will keep trying. Part of the problem is that people don't really like having their photos taken in Ghana. I can understand that. So..when I can..there will be lots of photos of little kids and "things" (boats, houses etc). The little ones insist on their photos being taken....knocking on my door whenever I am home...must stop that one!
What an amazing place! I think I am still pretty "shocked " by everything around me. People say that I am settling in well, but I think I could be taking a little longer than they think....Won't elaborate because I think this small weird feeling is temporary.
However! The school, Calvary Academy, is actually a part public part private set-up . Education in Ghana is supposed to be free....but this is not correct. Many children simply cannot afford to come, working for the family takes precedence, especially for the girls. The town kids sometimes hang around the edges of the school...almost as if education will rub off by proximity. Their eagerness to learn is extraordinary.
I am the new Obromi (or white person) in town. People in Ghana take their politeness and their Christianity with equal seriousness. In fact, they seem to be somehow intertwined with a national pride in genuine good manners! One must formally greet everyone else....before a conversation takes place. And I do mean everyone! Walking down the street takes some time these days. Still...it's a nice change from the pace of the western world, where none of us have time for much at all. It's also compulsory...if you don't slow down in Africa..I have a feeling you may die! It's so darned hot, I'm usually a puddle by 8am.
My little house is interesting. mud walls, dirt floors...I'm learning how to keep it all in order though...lots of sweeping dirt from one place to another...it works!
We have a sort of interrupted electricity supply, so I positively fall on the jug to get a cuppa when the power is on! The whole thing is largely black coffee...pure water (comes in little plastic bags which you tear the edge off to drink) and lots of eggs! Oh and beer...don't think I'll be losing much weight here. ...probably a good thing.
Otherwise, the morning starts at about 3.30 with the race between the rooster and the mosque...not sure who wakes whom here!
Then the mosque is quiet ...but not those damned chooks...who prattle away until next call to prayer..5am, by which time the women are awake and start the sweeping. So...all in all it's a good idea to go to bed when the sun goes down...otherwise you don't sleep much.
My first day I actually got up at 5 and went for a run. Local hilarity!!! "The Obromi is running." And everyone in town knew ...foolish white woman. NO ONE RUNS in Africa... Goodness knows how they get all those wonderful long distance runners....haven't done it again.
School at 7.30. The poor little devils work from 8---12.30 No breaks! The kids seem OK with it....I get to about 9am..feel sick...drink water...sweat a lot...feel sick again and then OK. The whole cycle repeats every hour of the day. I'm actually getting used to it...a bit.
I'm teaching a sort of Integrated science. But from what I can gather it's largely "integrated" with God--even where you wouldn't expect to find Him..so Penny is VERY careful of her big mouth these days....for all sorts of reasons.
I have come away from Dawhenya to the capital Accra for the weekend and to find internet access. Didn't happen..the access that is. Also I found Accra to be a bit overwhelming at the moment. I'll have another go another time.
I have retreated to a small hotel closer to home...but on the coast...blessed relief! And they have the net...yippee. You can't swim at the beaches here sadly. Too polluted and too dangerous,but each place has a little pool and I'm a very happy Aussie girl for that.
I go back home by tro-tro this afternoon. A tro- tro is like a Hi Ace van that you signal on the road. It picks up about 15 people on it's way to wherever it's headed. It's cheap and it's easy and, as always, the people are unceasingly polite and helpful. If I'm not careful I may learn some manners in this country!
I have found out that there is another internet cafe close to home, so will post from there more often and will work out how to get the photos up and running.
I would love to get pictures to you but technical hitches abound here. I will keep trying. Part of the problem is that people don't really like having their photos taken in Ghana. I can understand that. So..when I can..there will be lots of photos of little kids and "things" (boats, houses etc). The little ones insist on their photos being taken....knocking on my door whenever I am home...must stop that one!
What an amazing place! I think I am still pretty "shocked " by everything around me. People say that I am settling in well, but I think I could be taking a little longer than they think....Won't elaborate because I think this small weird feeling is temporary.
However! The school, Calvary Academy, is actually a part public part private set-up . Education in Ghana is supposed to be free....but this is not correct. Many children simply cannot afford to come, working for the family takes precedence, especially for the girls. The town kids sometimes hang around the edges of the school...almost as if education will rub off by proximity. Their eagerness to learn is extraordinary.
I am the new Obromi (or white person) in town. People in Ghana take their politeness and their Christianity with equal seriousness. In fact, they seem to be somehow intertwined with a national pride in genuine good manners! One must formally greet everyone else....before a conversation takes place. And I do mean everyone! Walking down the street takes some time these days. Still...it's a nice change from the pace of the western world, where none of us have time for much at all. It's also compulsory...if you don't slow down in Africa..I have a feeling you may die! It's so darned hot, I'm usually a puddle by 8am.
My little house is interesting. mud walls, dirt floors...I'm learning how to keep it all in order though...lots of sweeping dirt from one place to another...it works!
We have a sort of interrupted electricity supply, so I positively fall on the jug to get a cuppa when the power is on! The whole thing is largely black coffee...pure water (comes in little plastic bags which you tear the edge off to drink) and lots of eggs! Oh and beer...don't think I'll be losing much weight here. ...probably a good thing.
Otherwise, the morning starts at about 3.30 with the race between the rooster and the mosque...not sure who wakes whom here!
Then the mosque is quiet ...but not those damned chooks...who prattle away until next call to prayer..5am, by which time the women are awake and start the sweeping. So...all in all it's a good idea to go to bed when the sun goes down...otherwise you don't sleep much.
My first day I actually got up at 5 and went for a run. Local hilarity!!! "The Obromi is running." And everyone in town knew ...foolish white woman. NO ONE RUNS in Africa... Goodness knows how they get all those wonderful long distance runners....haven't done it again.
School at 7.30. The poor little devils work from 8---12.30 No breaks! The kids seem OK with it....I get to about 9am..feel sick...drink water...sweat a lot...feel sick again and then OK. The whole cycle repeats every hour of the day. I'm actually getting used to it...a bit.
I'm teaching a sort of Integrated science. But from what I can gather it's largely "integrated" with God--even where you wouldn't expect to find Him..so Penny is VERY careful of her big mouth these days....for all sorts of reasons.
I have come away from Dawhenya to the capital Accra for the weekend and to find internet access. Didn't happen..the access that is. Also I found Accra to be a bit overwhelming at the moment. I'll have another go another time.
I have retreated to a small hotel closer to home...but on the coast...blessed relief! And they have the net...yippee. You can't swim at the beaches here sadly. Too polluted and too dangerous,but each place has a little pool and I'm a very happy Aussie girl for that.
I go back home by tro-tro this afternoon. A tro- tro is like a Hi Ace van that you signal on the road. It picks up about 15 people on it's way to wherever it's headed. It's cheap and it's easy and, as always, the people are unceasingly polite and helpful. If I'm not careful I may learn some manners in this country!
I have found out that there is another internet cafe close to home, so will post from there more often and will work out how to get the photos up and running.
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