I've updated my profile with the news that I'm heading back to Dawhenya to help my friend Tony start a library for the school (and, hopefully, for the community as well).
I've been "living " in Ghana for about a month, by keeping in touch with some fabulous blogs by people living and working in the country.
It's made me feel "at home" and has brought back many memories of how I saw life there 2 years ago.
I will try and blog away whilst we look into how we go about getting things done....Ghana style.
I'm not going to pretend that it doesn't take a deep breath and a running jump to get up the courage to !. go back and 2. be useful when I get there! I'm a little older and slower now....bah! No problems....we can do it.
Oh.....and did I mention to everone I know that Obama will be there too???
"talk soon"...
Pen
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Last post...sounds a bit dire!
I have spent the day in Accra, buying dictionaries and visiting the high commission and generally tidying up loose ends and it is now very late and I am late home and my phone is out of battery..Whoops! Nobody knows where the old girl is...love it1
I'm not going to ge all maudlin about going.
There's good and bad. I am going to have a think about it all and post from France.
The photos seems to have distorted colour so I'll save them too.
This has been an amzing time for me. Thanks to everyone who made it possible.
It is not a matter of "not with a bang, but with a whimper". This has been important time and adventure and experience and I don't just want to brush it off with a "that's all folks!"
So---that's not all folks.
I will be back in a few days.
Better get home ...now how much am I going to have to fight with the cab driver?
I'm not going to ge all maudlin about going.
There's good and bad. I am going to have a think about it all and post from France.
The photos seems to have distorted colour so I'll save them too.
This has been an amzing time for me. Thanks to everyone who made it possible.
It is not a matter of "not with a bang, but with a whimper". This has been important time and adventure and experience and I don't just want to brush it off with a "that's all folks!"
So---that's not all folks.
I will be back in a few days.
Better get home ...now how much am I going to have to fight with the cab driver?
Praise God and pass the Amex card!
Sitting at the local "spot" and waiting for Meghan. Off to Accra for Thanksgiving (of all things!). My one concession to anything American while I am here.
Thankfully, Ghana does not seem to cowtow to the US--they have a fairly healthy and cynical arms-length relationship with them I think. Unwilling to exchange one imperial power for another, I think, and very proud (despite their neediness) of their independence.
Dawhenya is really just a large truck stop. Very busy with a main road which links Accra to Togo.
Just sitting is interesting. A tro tro came by with two signs on the rear window...both hand painted. "Trust in God" and "Nike". Ha ha...well there are all kinds of imperialism aren't there!?
Road kill is a favourite dish around here. The goats wander all over the roads and, well...the inevitable happens. There is a little routine they go through here to test the freshness ...not going there though.
Thanksgiving was atrocious of course..too many white people and too much booze. Should have known I guess.
I moved on to Cape Coast..amazing place with the slave forts and museums casting a dark and imposing historical shadow over the town.
Emina is really spoiling myself. FNQ-like with palm trees everywhere.
There is a huge and well thought of university at Cape Coast...with all the beautiful beaches..Aussie students would never get any work done!
To Krokobite to join my friends on Saturday night. To a place called Big Milly's Backyard--run by a rather eccentric Englishwoman and her Ghanain husband. Reggae everywhere--Rastamen abound and the music stopped at about 4am.
We were going to stay longer on the beach, but one of the girls hit the deck quite quickly. We thought it was malaria at first but seems she has not got it...but sick with somthing.We took her back to the hospital she works at and she will be fine, I'm sure.
Photos are of Cape Coast Castle and Dawhenya main road, with Moses junior tking the kids across in the aternoon and my insane year 4 class. These photos don't appear too good...but they are fine on the camera..I think it is the computer place.
OK OK..I think I finally Get it!
A couple of nights ago I think I finally "got" Africa.
It had been storming and raining like crazy and I walked through it a long way from "the spot" to home. The air was sweet smelling and the clear (the smells not yet having the chance to set in).
Just beautiful!
I said goodnight to the Malian guys sitting by my front door. (my French seems to improve dramatically after a couple of beers--oh dear)
And the next morning, the kids were singing as they swept every inch of the dirt in the compound....everybody was fresh and happy.
Apparently I have noticeably "slowed"--my speech; my gait; my frantic "do it and do it now" attitudes have gone. Thank God!
I believe that people come to these places, not to "help the little children" but for reasons of their own---largely to mend their own psyche or steady their heads, or even, sadly, to atone for their Western Guilt.
It doesn't really matter WHY. And, while you are here, slowing and calming etc... if you can be a bit helpful along the way...then why not?
But it's clear, both from my observation of my friends and myself, that amidst all the dirt and the poverty and the grinding difficulty to survive day to day of the people here---their generous good nature and acceptance "rubs off" on silly Westerners and we benefit in ways we never could have imagined. And because we are totally and imeediately immersed --after the initial and rather severe shock---changes happen quickly for us too!
I'm grateful for the changes and I'm grateful for the good humour shown to the Obroni!
some of my year 5s...why wouldn't I be having fun? Trying to work out how to smuggle them home!!!
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Kindred Spirits
My travelling companions and friends are interesting people.
Meghan, a woman from the US..is a teacher has had "an interesting life". She likes George Bush, is Catholic and is one of the most perceptive and self aware people I have ever met. Intense living makes for intense friendships i guess. I'm happy to have met her. She's a valuable person and lots of fun!
Kirsten, a public health intern from Johns hopkins. She is funded by Bill Gates Malaria project and is young and ambitious and well motivated and a terrific woman. And she hates George bush and is a pagan like me!!
There is Viet..a german doing a year public service instead of joining the army...he really means it...Ghana is no picnic!
And there is the lovely Zaraar,,a Pakistani engineer who is here for a year teaching while he waits for a placement in Milan. He is engaged to a Pakistani girl in the States and misses her like crazy.
These people have been a pleasure to be with. They are committed and light-hearted and inelligent people to spend time with. I will miss them, especially Meghan and Kirsten.
Meghan, a woman from the US..is a teacher has had "an interesting life". She likes George Bush, is Catholic and is one of the most perceptive and self aware people I have ever met. Intense living makes for intense friendships i guess. I'm happy to have met her. She's a valuable person and lots of fun!
Kirsten, a public health intern from Johns hopkins. She is funded by Bill Gates Malaria project and is young and ambitious and well motivated and a terrific woman. And she hates George bush and is a pagan like me!!
There is Viet..a german doing a year public service instead of joining the army...he really means it...Ghana is no picnic!
And there is the lovely Zaraar,,a Pakistani engineer who is here for a year teaching while he waits for a placement in Milan. He is engaged to a Pakistani girl in the States and misses her like crazy.
These people have been a pleasure to be with. They are committed and light-hearted and inelligent people to spend time with. I will miss them, especially Meghan and Kirsten.
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Ashanti country
We've been to Kumasi, to the heart of the Ashanti kingdom. The oldest and richest of Ghana.
9 hours there and 9 hours back on a tro tro was not my idea of jolly jaunts! Still, very very cheap. And it's importnat to travel cheaply like everybody else. The more sanitised STC buses are no faster and you miss all the action.Much better to try to be a local, thought the Obroni price for things is pretty inflated.
To do them credit...there is a volunteer price which lands somewhere between local and white. They really do appreciate the effort, even if sometimes it feels like the voluunteers are a bunch of rich white kids on gap year, grizziling that they can't get fed/bathed/served...whatever. And basically just wiping themselves out every weekend. (Reminds me a bit of me after escaping boarding school!)
I'm stating to spend more of the money that was collected at home.
Very quickly after i suggested that the kids needed a library where they could get the books themselves from the shelves and put them back (under supervison) ...they love to OWN the books..little buggers. Doors have been made for 3 of the rooms and bookcases constructed for the rooms. They have to be locked at night or everything will disappear.
Stools for them to have lunch on and a new blackboard for year 5. Money goes a long way in ghana!
Also...I discovered that the way they blacken the boards is to crack open old batteries and rub the black acid on the board...which subsequently floats around every time you clean the it. i have discovered the cause of always withme lung infection. Imagine what it's doingto little...non abused lungs!
So there is currently a Ghana wide search on for blackboard paint something that is not quit so toxic.
The owner, mt anthony...is a progressive guy. His attiude is 'if the wset doesit better...we should do it too@. That's all very well, but the west also does some things very badly...we have long talks about all of this. they ar not a flippant people. if they eneter into discussion with you..it's all formal language and hours of talk. Quit nice really and I always learn something amazing on the way. Attitudes are formed so differently, for historical and religious reasons. Quite complicated.
You may have noticed that the computer has started to do some very weird stuff! I cannot edit and so have to be careful. Sorry about that paragraph!!
I am also going to send back position things for the netball uniform. They don't seem to have them here and i can't get people to understand what we need. Also...no maps of the world...lots of Ghana though. So i will get them laminated and sent them back. Can't send heavy stuff though...too expensive.
9 hours there and 9 hours back on a tro tro was not my idea of jolly jaunts! Still, very very cheap. And it's importnat to travel cheaply like everybody else. The more sanitised STC buses are no faster and you miss all the action.Much better to try to be a local, thought the Obroni price for things is pretty inflated.
To do them credit...there is a volunteer price which lands somewhere between local and white. They really do appreciate the effort, even if sometimes it feels like the voluunteers are a bunch of rich white kids on gap year, grizziling that they can't get fed/bathed/served...whatever. And basically just wiping themselves out every weekend. (Reminds me a bit of me after escaping boarding school!)
I'm stating to spend more of the money that was collected at home.
Very quickly after i suggested that the kids needed a library where they could get the books themselves from the shelves and put them back (under supervison) ...they love to OWN the books..little buggers. Doors have been made for 3 of the rooms and bookcases constructed for the rooms. They have to be locked at night or everything will disappear.
Stools for them to have lunch on and a new blackboard for year 5. Money goes a long way in ghana!
Also...I discovered that the way they blacken the boards is to crack open old batteries and rub the black acid on the board...which subsequently floats around every time you clean the it. i have discovered the cause of always withme lung infection. Imagine what it's doingto little...non abused lungs!
So there is currently a Ghana wide search on for blackboard paint something that is not quit so toxic.
The owner, mt anthony...is a progressive guy. His attiude is 'if the wset doesit better...we should do it too@. That's all very well, but the west also does some things very badly...we have long talks about all of this. they ar not a flippant people. if they eneter into discussion with you..it's all formal language and hours of talk. Quit nice really and I always learn something amazing on the way. Attitudes are formed so differently, for historical and religious reasons. Quite complicated.
You may have noticed that the computer has started to do some very weird stuff! I cannot edit and so have to be careful. Sorry about that paragraph!!
I am also going to send back position things for the netball uniform. They don't seem to have them here and i can't get people to understand what we need. Also...no maps of the world...lots of Ghana though. So i will get them laminated and sent them back. Can't send heavy stuff though...too expensive.
Polyester and Pumps
I think I am going to have to publish a page of photos when I can get a better connection. So...something to look forward to.
In the meantime.
Tall girls. The girls absolutely throw themselves at the ball and won't countenance defeat. Calvary girls playing netball on sports day is like Gladiator without that bloody awful Russell Crowe!
The place is dusty and there are no lines marked and we have had to find bits of cardboard on which to write WD, WA, C etc and sew them onto the girls' shirts before they can play...but boy do they play!
Amidst all the dust and limbs flying..the referree strides around. Not a blemish or mark on her...in a blue polyester suit and high heels!
She must be boilling. It's about 44 degress and I'm hugging whatever shade I can. She looks immaculate and not at all like the sports mistresses when I went to school. (apologies to Mrs Long)
The sports day was great, if somewhat long, with the girls as runners up on the day and the boys doing a little better, coming 2nd overall in the soccer. They played three full length games that day in 40-50 degree heat.
The girls here are intersting. There is a sort of maturation process goes on at about age 14. they start to grow their hair quite long and braid it. (extensions everywhere,,no hiding them like at home and pretending they are your own hair). They strut around in short skirts for about two weeks, advertising quite happily....and then they stop!
Back to school uniform and conservatism. I think it's a hangover from before, when a girl didn't have anything to do (except all the world's work) after puberty and she was then marriageable...but now they seem to think they have better things to do and school is one of them .Fabulous! They also take marriage pretty darned seriously here (at least the girls do....the boys....now there is another story! ) They don't seem to want to muck around with sexual posturing before they are ready. Also....the bride price is much bigger here for a well educated, well behaved young Christian Lady.
Sadly, there seems to be quite a lot of paedophilia here. The only sign at the airpot says ' Akwaaba---welcome! Unless you are a paedophile and and intend to do injury to anyone in Ghana!'
Well that's pretty clear...and shocking. But they don't need to import their problem It's already here.
Meghan and i seem to have had several litttle kids each who have been raped who- I think, work on the assumption that someone outside the family might DO something. Of course, this is nigh on impossible in the west--much less here. But it seems that just listening to their stories, when everyone in the family can't because of shame..is all you can do.
The idea that 5 and 6 year olds retelling stories of viloation so that they know that it really did happen is too much punishment...and punishing the wrong people. Whenever was it any different, in any culture I guess. But sitting and talking and having a cry with them (or their mums) seesm to help.
That their rapist continue to live happliy next door and go one to attck their little sisters or brothers does my head in!
OK...I will tell you another Sports day story.
I'm sitting on a rock..in the shade and it's still 50 degrees. Two of the boys come up and tell me they are thirsty. I give them most of my water and some money to go buy water for the team.
Two seconds later it becomes clear that i am buying used socks for the entire team...and they are grinning widely at me! haha. The pitch...the play and then..the grin. Gotcha! It doesn't seem like deception..it just is how things are done. Survivors all!
In the meantime.
Tall girls. The girls absolutely throw themselves at the ball and won't countenance defeat. Calvary girls playing netball on sports day is like Gladiator without that bloody awful Russell Crowe!
The place is dusty and there are no lines marked and we have had to find bits of cardboard on which to write WD, WA, C etc and sew them onto the girls' shirts before they can play...but boy do they play!
Amidst all the dust and limbs flying..the referree strides around. Not a blemish or mark on her...in a blue polyester suit and high heels!
She must be boilling. It's about 44 degress and I'm hugging whatever shade I can. She looks immaculate and not at all like the sports mistresses when I went to school. (apologies to Mrs Long)
The sports day was great, if somewhat long, with the girls as runners up on the day and the boys doing a little better, coming 2nd overall in the soccer. They played three full length games that day in 40-50 degree heat.
The girls here are intersting. There is a sort of maturation process goes on at about age 14. they start to grow their hair quite long and braid it. (extensions everywhere,,no hiding them like at home and pretending they are your own hair). They strut around in short skirts for about two weeks, advertising quite happily....and then they stop!
Back to school uniform and conservatism. I think it's a hangover from before, when a girl didn't have anything to do (except all the world's work) after puberty and she was then marriageable...but now they seem to think they have better things to do and school is one of them .Fabulous! They also take marriage pretty darned seriously here (at least the girls do....the boys....now there is another story! ) They don't seem to want to muck around with sexual posturing before they are ready. Also....the bride price is much bigger here for a well educated, well behaved young Christian Lady.
Sadly, there seems to be quite a lot of paedophilia here. The only sign at the airpot says ' Akwaaba---welcome! Unless you are a paedophile and and intend to do injury to anyone in Ghana!'
Well that's pretty clear...and shocking. But they don't need to import their problem It's already here.
Meghan and i seem to have had several litttle kids each who have been raped who- I think, work on the assumption that someone outside the family might DO something. Of course, this is nigh on impossible in the west--much less here. But it seems that just listening to their stories, when everyone in the family can't because of shame..is all you can do.
The idea that 5 and 6 year olds retelling stories of viloation so that they know that it really did happen is too much punishment...and punishing the wrong people. Whenever was it any different, in any culture I guess. But sitting and talking and having a cry with them (or their mums) seesm to help.
That their rapist continue to live happliy next door and go one to attck their little sisters or brothers does my head in!
OK...I will tell you another Sports day story.
I'm sitting on a rock..in the shade and it's still 50 degrees. Two of the boys come up and tell me they are thirsty. I give them most of my water and some money to go buy water for the team.
Two seconds later it becomes clear that i am buying used socks for the entire team...and they are grinning widely at me! haha. The pitch...the play and then..the grin. Gotcha! It doesn't seem like deception..it just is how things are done. Survivors all!
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